Gutter Replacement in Wichita, KS

When replacement is the better answer

Repairs make sense when a few joints leak or one run sags. Replacement makes sense when the problems are everywhere, keep coming back, or the system was never right for the roof. Common reasons Wichita-area homeowners replace gutters:

• Age. Old galvanized steel gutters rust from the inside, and decades-old sectional aluminum leaks at every connector. HomeGuide notes that once gutters pass about 20 years or have multiple issues, replacement is often more cost effective than repairs (HomeGuide, gutter installation cost).
• Hail and wind. Dented, crushed and torn runs after a storm, often replaced along with the roof as part of an insurance claim. See hail-damaged gutters.
• Chronic overflow. If gutters overflow even when clean, they may be undersized for the roof or short on downspouts. Replacing with 6-inch gutters and larger downspouts fixes the cause instead of the symptom. See gutter sizes.
• Rotted fascia. If the fascia behind the gutters must be replaced along most of the house, the gutters have to come down anyway.
• A new roof or new siding. Gutters are often removed during a re-roof or re-side. Replacing them at the same time avoids hanging old gutters on new trim.
• Looks. Faded, mismatched or patched gutters on an otherwise updated house.

What a gutter replacement includes

1. Removal and disposal of the old gutters, downspouts, hangers and spikes.
2. Fascia inspection and repair. Once the gutters are off, any soft or rotted fascia and sub-fascia is visible and can be replaced or wrapped. See fascia and soffit.
3. Drip edge check. The roof's drip edge should extend into the new gutter. Gaps let water run behind the gutter.
4. Resizing and re-planning downspouts based on roof areas and where water can be carried away from the house.
5. New seamless gutters formed on site, hung on hidden hangers with the correct pitch. See seamless gutters.
6. New downspouts, elbows and extensions, and a check of any underground drain connections. See downspouts and drainage.
7. Cleanup and a water test.

Upgrade decisions to make during replacement

• 5-inch or 6-inch? If the old system overflowed, this is the time to upsize.
• Thicker material? 0.032-inch aluminum resists dents and sagging better than thinner stock (Angi, how to choose gutter gauge).
• More or larger downspouts? Often the cheapest fix for overflow.
• Gutter guards? Easier to fit with new gutters. See gutter guards.
• Color? A chance to change from builder white to a color that suits the house.
• Drainage at the ground? Longer extensions, buried lines or regrading where water collects. See downspout drainage options.

Timing with roofing and siding work

Gutters, roofing and siding all meet at the eave, so order matters. When a roof is replaced, the drip edge goes on first and the gutters hang under it. When siding is replaced, downspouts come off the walls and go back on afterward. If more than one trade is involved, ask who is responsible for removing and rehanging the gutters, who repairs the fascia, and whether the gutters are being reused or replaced. Reusing old gutters on a new roof often looks like a false economy a few years later.

After hail, roofing contractors often include gutters in the same claim. Kansas requires roofing contractors to register with the Attorney General (Kansas Attorney General, roofing contractor registration); the Kansas Roofing Registration Act defines roofing services broadly but does not single out gutters (K.S.A. 50-6,122 (Kansas Roofing Registration Act definitions)), so if a roofer is replacing your gutters as part of a roof job, check the roofer's registration.

Older homes and lead paint

On homes built before 1978, painted fascia and trim may contain lead paint. Contractors who disturb painted surfaces on those homes for pay must follow EPA lead-safe work practices (EPA, Renovation, Repair and Painting (lead-safe) program). Ask about it if your fascia will be scraped, cut or replaced.

Requesting an estimate

Mention the age of the gutters if you know it, what problems you are seeing, whether a roof or siding project is planned, and whether there is an insurance claim. We'll call you back to talk through the project. The cost guide lists published price ranges.

What to compare between replacement estimates

• Linear feet and downspout count. Two estimates for the same house should be close on footage; large differences deserve a question.
• Gutter size and thickness, for example 6-inch, 0.032-inch aluminum versus 5-inch, 0.027-inch.
• Hangers: type and spacing.
• Fascia: how rotted wood is priced, and whether wrapping is included.
• Removal, disposal and cleanup.
• Extensions, splash blocks and underground connections.
• Warranty on the material and written workmanship terms.

The guide how to compare gutter estimates has a full checklist.

Replacing gutters on part of the house

Sometimes only the front or one side needs replacing, for example after a tree limb falls or a single elevation takes the brunt of a storm. That works best when the existing color and profile are still available and the remaining gutters are in good shape. If the old system is near the end of its life anyway, replacing everything at once usually looks better and avoids a second mobilization later.

If an insurance claim is involved, share the adjuster's line items with whoever writes your estimate so differences in footage, downspouts or fascia can be sorted out early.

What does it cost? See published national ranges for gutter replacement in the gutter cost guide. They are general industry estimates, not quotes.

Related guides

• How to Compare Gutter Estimates in Wichita
• 10 Signs You Need New Gutters (Not Just a Repair)
• How to Handle a Hail Damage Gutter Claim in Kansas